Mixed climbing

Mixed climbing is a combination of ice climbing and rock climbing generally using ice climbing equipment such as crampons and ice tools.[1][2] Mixed climbing has inspired its own specialized gear such as boots which are similar to climbing shoes but feature built-in crampons. Dry-tooling is mixed climbing's most specialized skill and has since evolved into a "sport" unto itself.

Terrain

The terrain that is climbed on is diverse and consists of rock, turf, snow, and ice in varying amounts. Such terrain is typically encountered in the winter season or on high icy mountains.

Grading

Grading of mixed terrain climbs roughly follows the WI rating system with respect to its physical and technical demands. The scale typically starts at M4 and subgrades of "-" and "+" are commonly used, although the distinctions are often subjective.

Rating	Notes[3]
M1	Usually doesn't require tools (except for crampons)
M2
M3
M4	Slabby to vertical, some technical dry-tooling.
M5	Some sustained vertical dry tooling.
M6	Vertical to overhanging with difficult dry tooling.
M7	Overhanging, powerful and technical drytooling, less than 10 metres (33 ft) of "hard" climbing.
M8	Some nearly horizontal overhangs requiring very powerful and technical dry tooling; bouldery or longer cruxes than M7.
M9	Either continuously vertical or slightly overhanging with marginal or technical holds, or a juggy roof of 2 to 3 body lengths.
M10	At least 10 meters of horizontal rock or 30 meters of overhanging dry tooling with powerful moves and no rests.
M11	A ropelength of overhanging gymnastic climbing, or up to 15 meters of roof.
M12	M11 with bouldery, dynamic moves and tenuous technical holds.

Techniques

Climbers participating in mixed climbing use techniques from both ice climbing and rock climbing. The nature of the mixed terrain and has also led to the development of specialist techniques only implemented in mixed or dry tooling terrain, such as stein pulls and pick torquing.

Equipment

A climber chooses their equipment based on the exact conditions and terrain that will be encountered as well as their climbing style and personal preferences. Mixed terrain climbing equipment typically includes both rock and ice climbing equipment. Specialist equipment has also been developed.

References

Gadd, Will; Roger Chayer (November 2003). Ice & Mixed Climbing: Modern Technique (First ed.). Mountaineers Books. ISBN 0-89886-769-X.
Cox, Steven M.; Kris Fulsaas, eds. (September 2003). Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills (7 ed.). Seattle: The Mountaineers. ISBN 0-89886-828-9.
"Climbing Grades - Alpinist.com". www.alpinist.com. Retrieved 2020-02-20.

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[ice-1] Gadd, Will; Roger Chayer (November 2003). Ice & Mixed Climbing: Modern Technique (First ed.). Mountaineers Books. ISBN 0-89886-769-X.

[freedom-2] Cox, Steven M.; Kris Fulsaas, eds. (September 2003). Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills (7 ed.). Seattle: The Mountaineers. ISBN 0-89886-828-9.

[3] "Climbing Grades - Alpinist.com". www.alpinist.com. Retrieved 2020-02-20.