List of Mount Everest guides

This is a list of notable Mount Everest guides, which are professional mountaineers (and mountaineering firms) who help people to ascend Mount Everest in the Himalayas in return for fees. Previously, the summit was only accessible to expert mountaineers who were often self-guided, or assisted by local sherpas.

A guide helped this group of Canadians trek near to Everest (in the background on top-left), to the nearby Kala Pathar peak.

Role

Guides can, for example, set fixed lines of rope for others to use, organize rescues in times of trouble, or use communication tools to call in helicopter evacuations.[1][2] Another job on Mount Everest is as an "icefall doctor" using ladders and ropes to make a path across the Khumbu Icefall, which guides might do themselves or delegate to others.[3] Guides, especially if they are guiding for a mountaineering or adventure company, often call the people they help up "clients".[4]

Another task on Everest is helping people with medical problems, although the work can be dangerous.[5] When potentially deadly health conditions strike, the guides can sometimes lose their clients or abort the climb.[6] One mother of two died after developing a health problem at the Everest base camp.[7]

Mount Everest guides assist climbers on what are called "guided" climbs, and guided ascent can cost double an unguided one.[8] Many climbers in more recent times are unguided but can get some support from a Sherpa, which, though more similar to an Alpinist porter, is much cheaper and also called a guide.[8] The term guide can mean something along the lines of an assistant all the way to a World-famous mountaineer.[8]

Notable guides

Notable Nepali guides

Pem Dorjee Sherpa transverses a crevasse in the ice

Notable firms

See also

References

  1. "Fixed ropes - climbers guide to Everest". mounteverest.net. Retrieved 23 March 2015.
  2. USA Today - Mount Everest avalanche survivor: 'I had to survive' - April 27, 2015
  3. Elite Sherpa Dies in Fall on Everest
  4. Record-breaking glory on Mt Everest
  5. "Rutgers graduate dies on Mount Everest".
  6. http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web07-08w/video-mm-fatal-game
  7. "British mother Debra Wilding dies climbing Everest".
  8. The Cost$ of Climbing Everest, 2010
  9. The Guide Putting Everest Expeditions on a Fast Track
  10. PBS - Storm Over Everest
  11. Andy Tyson Stephen Henderson Apr 16, 2015
  12. "Into Thin Air: A Personal Account of the Mount Everest Disaster by Jon Krakauer (9780385494786) | Riverbend Books". www.riverbendbooks.com.au. Archived from the original on 2015-07-14.
  13. NBC - Inside Dateline
  14. National Geographic
  15. "The Adventurer: Dick Bass' Many Summits". Forbes. Archived from the original on May 11, 2004.
  16. "Everest: is it right to go back to the top?". The Guardian. 2015-04-12. Retrieved 2018-01-12.
  17. "After the Shock: Walking the Everest Route | Outside Online". www.outsideonline.com. Archived from the original on 2015-05-10.
  18. "Dave Morton is Quitting Everest. Maybe. (It's Complicated.)". 5 April 2016.
  19. "Conrad Anker, the Wildest Dream: Conquest of Everest -- National Geographic". Archived from the original on 2013-06-07. Retrieved 2013-08-19.
  20. BBC
  21. "Everest and Lhotse in Less Than 21 Hours". Climbing.com. Archived from the original on 20 September 2011. Retrieved 16 October 2011.
  22. PBS - Everest Facts
  23. NDTV - Phil C
  24. Conquering life's lows has been the true test of climbing couple's mettle 2007
  25. The Times They Are A Changin': The Effect of Institutional Change on By David Savage, Benno Torgler
  26. Everest: Wally Berg
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