So for the past few months I have been printing in my Ender 3 and everything ran smoothly. But suddenly a few days ago I tried to print and the hot end temperature just keeps on rising past the set temperature of 230. I tried PID tuning, changing the nozzle, hot rod, and the thermistor nothing seems to work.... I even took out the main board and check whether the solder joints are loose, none so far. Any ideas on how to fix the problem?
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Some things I can rule out: your nozzle is not at fault, and it is most likely a firmware thing. Some questions: 1) did you alter/swap the firmware? (You need to flash a bootloader iirc) 2) you print ABS or some other "hot" plastic? 3) can you use a [terminal](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10573/what-is-a-printer-console-terminal) and tell us at what temperature you get the max-temp? – Trish Mar 10 '20 at 07:54
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Nope I have never alter or configure the firmware, for the print material I always use PETG, and for the max-temp it always blows out at 300. Maybe for extra information, I tried to bring the temp to 120 and it goes past that to somewhere around 210 then went back down to 100, then it just starts to fluctuate from 100-170. – Brilliant Purnawan Mar 10 '20 at 08:00
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that sounds like really badly tuned, yes. I **strongly** suggest to swap the firmware, because at some point the ender-3 had no Thermal Runaway Protection. Maxtemp is a start, but we want proper TRP and PID-tuning, and that needs you to have a proper firmware. I point to 3 questions: [Bootloader w/o Arduino](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11338/flashing-a-bootloader-on-ender-3-without-arduino), [bootloader w//w/o arduino](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6685/how-to-install-new-atmega-firmware-via-the-isp-pins/6686#6686) and... – Trish Mar 10 '20 at 08:07
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Hmm I guess ill try that first , thx – Brilliant Purnawan Mar 10 '20 at 08:08
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...(Where is that last one...) [making your own firmware](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6660/8884) - that last one is a step-by-step guide to get your firmware set up. You don't necessarily need a booloader even, but having one allows to alter the settingss much easier. Also, did you `M500` after the PID tuning? – Trish Mar 10 '20 at 08:10
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This can't be your issue, but added for information, I once had the same issue when I installed a 12 V heating element in a 24 V system, overshoots and instability, replacing for the correct heater element fixed this instantly. – 0scar Mar 10 '20 at 09:02
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Ah.. ill check it out 0scar thx for the input – Brilliant Purnawan Mar 10 '20 at 09:42
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Ender3 is a 24V machine, so worth checking – Trish Mar 10 '20 at 11:06