iPad Pro 9.7" Logic Board Replacement

Written By: Kyle Smith

Comments: 18

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

3 - 4 hours

Introduction

Follow this guide to remove or replace the logic board on an iPad Pro 9.7".

This guide is written with a cellular model iPad Pro. If your iPad is not the cellular enabled model, skip the first step.

For your safety, discharge the battery below 25% before disassembling your device. This reduces the risk of a dangerous thermal event if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

Some photos in this guide are from a different model and may contain slight visual discrepancies, but they won't affect the guide procedure.

Tools

Parts

Precut Adhesive Card

Step 1

Insert a SIM card eject tool, bit, or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray, located near the bottom edge of the iPad.
Press firmly to eject the tray.
Remove the SIM tray.

My iPad Pro 9.7 wifi only has no pinhole for sim card

Michelle - 27/11/20

You’re right! The Wi-Fi only model does not have a pinhole. Skip this step for your iPad.

Arthur Shi - 30/11/20

Step 2

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

Covering the screen with tape proved an essential safety step with the ipad display/lcd I just replaced. The screen was so badly broken that a part of it was almost powder, but the combination of the tape and sticky adhesive residue kept most of that together, and cleanup was pretty easy as a result. One caveat, though, is that the tape will probably make the suction cup useless for pulling up on the display. It did for me, anyway.

John Lasseter - 22/05/21

Step 3

The following steps involve using an iOpener to soften the adhesive holding the front panel assembly in place. When using the iOpener, be sure to heat it in the microwave for no more than 30 seconds.
Handling it by the tabs on either end, place a heated iOpener over the top edge of the iPad.
Let the iOpener sit on the iPad for two minutes to soften the adhesive securing the front panel to the rest of the iPad.

I see a lot of videos that show using a heat gun on low to soften the adhesive. I know there is inherent risk with this since you could start delaminating things, but is it something that could be considered (at your own risk)? Or is it something that could have more risks than I am realizing?

joshcorey -

Yes, you can definitely use a hair dryer, heat gun, or a heating pad. If you're using a heat gun, be careful not to overheat the display. The surface should feel slightly too hot to the touch.

Arthur Shi -

Step 4

While the iPad looks uniform from the outside, there are delicate components under certain portions of the front glass. To avoid damage, only heat and pry in the areas described in each step.
As you follow the directions, take special care to avoid prying in the following areas:
Home Button
Front Facing Camera
Main Camera

Verwirrend: Es sollte heissen, dass man an den beschriebenen Stellen eben NICHT hebeln sollte.

Felix - 04/04/21

Danke! Ich habe den Teil mit dem NICHT hebeln nochmal hervorgehoben.

Fabian Neidhardt - 07/04/21

Step 5

Place a suction cup over the iPad's front-facing camera and press down to create a seal.
To get the most leverage, place the suction cup as close to the edge as possible without going past the edge of the display.

Step 6

Firmly pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the front panel and the rear case.
Do not pull too hard or you may shatter the glass.
Once you've opened a sufficient gap, insert an opening pick into the gap to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 7

Slide the pick along the edge of the display, towards the headphone jack.
If there is still a considerable amount of resistance when sliding the opening pick, repeat the iOpener heating procedure and apply additional heat.
Don't insert the pick past the bezel into the display area, or you will damage it.
A good rule of thumb is to never insert the opening pick more than a quarter inch into the iPad.

Step 8

Insert a second opening pick by the front-facing camera.

Step 9

Slide the second pick along the top edge of the iPad, towards the Sleep/Wake Button.

Step 10

Insert a third pick by the front-facing camera.

Step 11

Bring the right opening pick down and around the top right corner of the iPad.

Step 12

Bring the left opening pick around the top left corner of the tablet.

Step 13

Reheat the iOpener and lay it over the right edge of the display to loosen the adhesive underneath.

Step 14

Slide the right opening pick roughly halfway down the display.

Step 15

Reheat the iOpener and apply heat to the left side of the iPad.

Step 16

Slide the left-hand opening pick about halfway down the edge of the display.

Step 17

Slide the opposite opening pick down to the bottom right corner of the iPad.
If necessary, reheat the adhesive on the right edge to loosen the display assembly.

Step 18

Slide the left-hand opening pick down the edge of the display until you reach the corner.

Step 19

Use the iOpener to apply heat to the bottom edge of the iPad.

Step 20

Bring the right-hand opening pick around the bottom corner of the iPad.

Step 21

Repeat for the left-hand pick.
Reheat and reapply the iOpener as needed.

Step 22

Remove the right-hand opening pick at the bottom of the iPad.

Step 23

Slide the left-hand opening pick along the bottom edge of the display, then remove it from the bottom right corner of the iPad.
Be very careful to not insert the pick more than a quarter inch into the display to avoid damaging the Home Button and display cables underneath.

Step 24

Use picks to ensure most of the adhesive has been cut through on the top, left, and bottom sides.
Twist the top and bottom picks to separate the display assembly from the rear case.
Do not attempt to remove the display—it is still attached to the rear case.

Step 25

Swing the display assembly towards the right of the case, using the right edge as a hinge.
As you move the display assembly, make sure that the display ribbon cable is not being stressed.
Continue swinging the display assembly until it lays flat next to the rear case.

Step 26

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the eleven 1.3 mm screws securing the EMI shield.

Step 27

Apply a heated iOpener to the EMI shield on the logic board for one minute.

Step 28

Lift the logic board EMI shield, starting at the edge nearest the top of the iPad.
Slowly peel the EMI shield up from the logic board.
This takes a bit of force due to the many tiny clips securing the shield, and the shield may deform slightly. That's okay—try to keep the deformation to a minimum, and it will lay flat when reinstalled and screwed down.
Remove the logic board EMI shield.

Step 29

Use a Phillips driver to remove the 1.7 mm-long screw securing the battery connector.

What size is this screw?

Austin Martin - 24/12/20

i get 1.65mm with my calipers but the 1.3s read 1.25 on my calipers too, so probably a 1.7mm

bunjamins - 13/05/21

Step 30

If the EMI shield has any sharp protrusions after removal, you should flatten them before reinstalling the shield.
Squeeze the sharp protrusion with a pair of pliers to flatten it.
Repeat the process for all sharp protrusions along the edges of the EMI shield.

Step 31

These photos show what the battery connector looks like underneath the logic board. Use these photos as a reference while you safely disconnect the battery.
Notice that the battery connector has cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you'll need to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect the battery.

Le connecteur de batterie est il réparable si abîmé ?

Maverick -

Step 32

Be careful when you isolate the battery using a battery blocker. The battery contacts are easily bent or broken, resulting in irreversible damage.
Ensure that the iFixit logo on the battery blocker is facing up.
Slide the battery blocker underneath the left side of the logic board's battery connector at a 35 degree angle.
The battery blocker's right prong should slide between the left side of the logic board's battery connector and the battery's contact pads. The left prong should slide under the logic board.
Don't push the battery blocker underneath the connector or logic board with excessive force. If you're having trouble fitting the battery blocker underneath the logic board, refer to the next step for information on loosening the logic board. You can also try using a playing card to disconnect the battery instead.
The battery blocker or playing card should slide under the logic board without encountering any blockages. After insertion, they should rest at a 15 degree angle.
Leave the battery blocker in place as you work.

le connecteur de la batterie est t’il remplaçable ou repérable si jamais abîmé ?

Maverick -

Step 33

If the battery blocker doesn't easily slide under the logic board, follow these steps to partially loosen the logic board from the frame:
Apply a few drops of high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol under the logic board to the left and right of the battery connection.
Wait one minute for the isopropyl alcohol to weaken the adhesive under the logic board.
Try to insert the battery blocker. If the logic board doesn't easily lift up, apply a few more drops of isopropyl alcohol.
This doesn't apply when using the playing card method to disconnect the battery because the playing card is only inserted between the battery connector and the battery contact pads.

Step 34

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the display cable bracket.

i think we need to talk about the battery situation here. apple change up the style of battery connector on this model as well as some others. if someone can add to this list and add the appropriate photos in the right spot should help someone else. the battery tabs are open towards the battery side and inserting a tool in this area can pry them open further and damage or rip off the tab. some have found that by lifting on either side of the battery tab, they would not even encounter the tabs.

greg - 14/07/20

Step 35

Remove the display cable bracket.

A tab was folded over a connector of some sort on the bottom side. I found it was a better to pull from the top to the bottom to fold the tabs slightly to remove this cover.

rosecitymech - 09/12/19

Actually it helps to move the cover slightly towards the bottom of the iPad as that disengages to tabs…

DeeAnn Hopings - 06/06/21

Step 36

Use the flat end of the spudger to disconnect the display assembly connector from the motherboard socket.

Step 37

Repeat the previous step for the two remaining connectors.

Step 38

Remove the display assembly from the frame.
If you are reusing the original display assembly, follow this display adhesive application guide to apply replacement display adhesive during reassembly.

Step 39

Slide an opening pick under the right ambient light sensor to loosen its adhesive.
There are two pegs on the shelf that position the ambient light sensor—one on the bottom edge and one near the top edge.

The "right ambient light sensor" can be replaced?

If yes, where can I find the replacement part?

Michael Rodriguez -

Step 40

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 1.9 mm-long screws securing the upper speaker to the frame.

Step 41

Strong adhesive secures the upper speaker to the frame.
Apply a few drops of high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol under the upper speaker.
Wait one minute for the isopropyl alcohol to weaken the adhesive under the upper speaker.

Step 42

Use an opening tool to pry up the left edge of the upper speaker.
Try to avoid bending the upper speaker while prying it up. Some bending will likely happen during this process, but excessive bending may damage the upper speaker.
If the upper speaker isn't detaching from the frame, apply a few more drops of isopropyl alcohol.

Step 43

Use the flat end of a spudger to push the left side of the upper speaker toward the battery just enough for the left speaker to slide out of its recess in the frame.

Step 44

Lift and remove the upper speaker from the frame.
There are multiple cables under the upper speaker. Be careful not to damage them while removing it.
If any cables are still attached to the upper speaker while you lift it up, carefully peel them off of the upper speaker. You can apply more isopropyl alcohol if they don't easily peel away.
If the ZIF connector sticker near the front camera comes off while removing the upper speaker, reapply it to the ZIF connector.
If the ZIF connector near the front camera disconnects while removing the upper speaker, use the pointed end of a spudger to flip up the locking flap. Then, reinsert the ribbon cable and close the locking flap.
During reassembly, make sure the right ambient light sensor is on top of its shelf.
If there's any alcohol solution remaining in the device, carefully wipe it off or allow it to air dry before reinstalling the upper speaker.

Step 45

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the right antenna's coaxial connector from its socket.
To reinstall, hold the connector in place and gently press straight down. The connector will “snap” into its socket.

Step 46

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the left antenna's coaxial connector from its socket.
To reinstall, hold the connector in place and gently press straight down. The connector will “snap” into its socket.

Step 47

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the bundled left and right antenna cables away from the frame.
Be careful not to puncture the battery with the spudger.
The sticker bundling the antenna cables together is lightly adhered to the frame.

Step 48

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the adhesive that was securing the bundled antenna cables to the frame.
Take care not to damage the antenna cables with the sharp tips on the tweezers.
During reassembly, apply pre-cut adhesive to the bundled antenna cables to secure them to the frame.

Step 49

Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the sticker bundling the left and right antenna cables together.

Step 50

Peel the right antenna cable off of the sticker.

Step 51

Use a pair of tweezers to lift up the small sticker near the lower right speaker securing the right antenna to the frame.

Step 52

Use the pointed end of a spudger to detach the foam spacer adhered to the second right antenna sticker.

Step 53

Remove the foam spacer from the second right antenna sticker.

Step 54

Use a pair of tweezers to detach the large right antenna sticker between the logic board and the antenna.

Step 55

Use a pair of tweezers to lift up the small sticker next to the lower right speaker securing the left antenna cable to the frame.

Step 56

Use a pair of tweezers to detach the large left antenna cable sticker near the lower right speaker.

Step 57

Use a pair of tweezers to lift the left antenna and its third sticker away from the Lightning port area of the frame.

Step 58

Use the pointed end of a spudger to detach the foam spacer adhered to the fourth left antenna cable sticker.

Step 59

Remove the foam spacer from the fourth left antenna cable sticker.

Step 60

Use a pair of tweezers to lift up the fourth left antenna cable sticker.

Step 61

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the sticker covering the left ambient light sensor's ZIF connector.

Der ZIF Stecker liegt versteckt unter der GSM/LTE Antenne.

Bernd Löhr -

Step 62

Use the pointed end of a spudger to flip up the locking flap on the left ambient light sensor's ZIF connector.

Step 63

Use a pair of tweezers to grip the left ambient light sensor ribbon cable as close as possible to its contacts.
Pull the ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector.

Step 64

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the front camera's press connector from its socket.
Be careful to pry only under the edge of the connector, and not under the socket itself. If you pry under the socket, you will separate it from the circuit board.
To reconnect, align the connector carefully over its socket and press down with your fingertip—first at one side, then the other—until it clicks into place.
Do not press down on the middle until the connector is fully seated—if it's misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 65

Use a pair of tweezers to grip the bottom coaxial connector on the top interconnect board by its metal frame.
Lift straight up to disconnect the coaxial connector from the interconnect board.

I got to this step and the connector separated from the tiny interconnect board. Is there a way to jump these cables without that board?

John Bauldree -

Step 66

Apply a few drops of high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol to the edges of the top interconnect board.
Wait thirty seconds for the isopropyl alcohol to weaken the adhesive under the top interconnect board.

Step 67

Use an opening pick to cut through the adhesive under the top interconnect board and detach it from the frame.

Step 68

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the rear camera's press connector from its socket.

Step 69

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the power button assembly's press connector from its socket.

Step 70

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the volume buttons' press connector from its socket.

Step 71

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the sticker covering the ZIF connectors near the Lightning port.

Step 72

Use an opening pick to cut through the adhesive under the right ribbon cable next to the lower speaker (Lightning port oriented up) and detach it from the frame.
Be careful not to pull the ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector. Pulling the ribbon cable out while the ZIF connector locking flap is closed may damage the connection.

Step 73

Use an opening pick to cut through the adhesive under the left ribbon cable next to the lower speaker and detach it from the frame.
Be careful not to pull the ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector. Pulling the ribbon cable out while the ZIF connector locking flap is closed may damage the connection.

Step 74

Use the pointed end of a spudger to flip up the hinged locking flap on the left ribbon cable ZIF connector.

Step 75

Use the pointed end of a spudger to flip up the hinged locking flap on the right ribbon cable ZIF connector.

Step 76

Use a pair of tweezers to grip the left ribbon cable as close as possible to its contacts and pull the ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector.

Step 77

Use a pair of tweezers to grip the right ribbon cable as close as possible to its contacts and pull the ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector.

Step 78

Remove the four Phillips screws securing the Lightning port:
Two 2.5 mm screws
Two 1.5 mm screws

Step 79

This image shows the device with the logic board removed.
Strips of adhesive secure the logic board to the frame. In the next steps, you'll weaken and cut through the adhesive to detach the logic board from the frame.

Step 80

Carefully turn the iPad over.
Many cables are loose at this point. Make sure no cables are bent or torn while turning the iPad over.
Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top, left, and bottom edges of the rear case for one minute on each edge.

Step 81

Use an opening pick to cut through the adhesive under the Lightning port ribbon cable to detach it from the frame.

Step 82

Use a pair of tweezers to lift up the smaller sticker to the left of the Lightning port (when the Lightning port is oriented up).

Step 83

Use a pair of tweezers to lift up the larger sticker to the left of the Lightning port.

Step 84

Use a pair of tweezers to grip the Lightning port by the bottom right screw hole.
Pull the Lightning port out of its recess.

Step 85

Apply a few drops of high-concentration isopropyl alcohol under the left edge of the upper logic board arm (Lightning port oriented down).
Wait thirty seconds for the isopropyl alcohol to weaken the adhesive under the upper logic board arm.

Step 86

Use an opening pick to cut through the adhesive under the upper logic board arm and detach it from the frame.
The upper logic board arm is thin. Be careful not to tear it during this process.
It may help to grip the upper logic board arm with your fingers and peel it away from the frame.
Apply a few more drops of isopropyl alcohol under the logic board arm when it becomes difficult to detach from the frame.

Step 87

Insert an opening pick about 0.5 inches (13 mm) under the top edge of the larger portion of the upper logic board arm.
Leave the opening pick under the upper logic board arm to prevent it from re-adhering to the frame.

Step 88

Apply a few drops of high-concentration isopropyl alcohol to the right edge of the logic board.

Step 89

Apply a few drops of high-concentration isopropyl alcohol to the left edge of the logic board.
Wait one minute for the isopropyl alcohol to weaken the adhesive under the logic board.

Step 90

Slide an opening pick about 0.5 inches (13 mm) under the top of the logic board's left side to cut through the adhesive.
Remove the opening pick.

Step 91

Slide the opening pick about 0.5 inches (13 mm) under the logic board's left side next to the battery connector.
Remove the opening pick.

Step 92

Slide the opening pick about 0.5 inches (13 mm) under the logic board on the other side of the battery connector.
Remove the opening pick.

Step 93

Slide the opening pick about 0.5 inches (13 mm) under the bottom of the logic board's left side.
Remove the opening pick.

Step 94

Remove the battery blocker from the logic board.
During reassembly, reinsert the battery blocker after you install the logic board into the device.

Step 95

Remove the opening pick from the upper logic board arm.

Step 96

Remove the logic board from the frame.
If the logic board doesn't easily lift out of the frame, apply a few more drops of isopropyl alcohol to any stuck areas and use an opening pick to cut through more of the adhesive.
If there's any alcohol solution remaining in the device, carefully wipe it off or allow it to air dry before installing your logic board.
During reassembly, follow this guide if you are using a pre-cut adhesive card to secure the logic board to the frame.

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad Pro 9.7" Answers community for help.

Author

Kyle Smith

Member since: 01/02/21

33960 Reputation

One comment

where can I buy the logic board for this ?

Victor Perea -