Google Pixel 6a Battery Replacement

Written By: Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Comments: 5

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

This repair guide was authored by the iFixit staff and hasn’t been endorsed by Google. Learn more about our repair guides here.

Use this guide to replace the battery in your Google Pixel 6a.

Note: this guide was made using the Verizon GB62Z model, which features a 5G mmWave antenna. Ignore the steps that include the 5G mmWave antenna if you have a different model, as the procedure is identical.

For your safety, discharge the battery below 25% before disassembling your phone. This reduces the risk of fire if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

You'll need replacement adhesive in order to complete this repair.

Tools

Parts

Google Pixel 6a Battery - Genuine

Step 1

Completely power off your phone before you begin.
Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

What's a good temperature to set to hotplate to for a repair like this?

David -

Step 2

While you're waiting for the adhesive to loosen, take note of the following:
Screen seam: This seam separates the screen from the rest of the phone. Do not pry at this seam.
Bezel seam: This is where the plastic bezel designed to protect the screen meets the frame. It's held in place by plastic clips. This is where you should pry.

Step 3

Apply a suction cup to the screen, as close to the center of the right edge as possible.
Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap between the bezel and the frame.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
Depending on the age of your phone, this may be difficult. If you're having trouble, apply more heat to the edge and try again.
If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

Would be helpful to have alternative solutions offered here for those with shattered screens, since suction cups don't work.

Paul York -

Hi Paul.

Thank you for your comment! I have updated the step to provide an alternative solution for shattered screens.

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl - 22/11/22

Would just like to note that in my particular case even tape or super glue did not work, due to the screen being shattered right along the spot where you need to place the suction cup. I ended up resorting to inserting a razor blade into the seam to open it just enough to insert the pick.

mkirwin -

Step 4

While still applying suction, pivot the pick upwards to a steep angle.
Carefully push the pick in while prying to reposition the opening pick into the bezel seam.
Only insert the pick up to 3.5 mm to avoid damaging the internals.

Step 5

Slide the pick along the right edge to release the plastic clips securing the bezel to the frame.
Position the pick at the top-right edge before moving to the next step.

Step 6

Rotate the opening pick around the top-right corner of the phone to release the clips.
Leave the opening pick in the top-right corner to prevent the clips from re-locking.
Only insert the pick up to 4 mm to avoid damaging the internals.

Step 7

Insert a new opening pick into the gap you just created.
Slide the pick along the top edge to release the clips.
When slicing around the front camera, only insert the pick up to 3 mm to avoid damaging the lens.

Step 8

Rotate the opening pick around the top-left corner of the phone to release the clips.
Leave the opening pick in the top-left corner to prevent the clips from re-locking.

Step 9

Insert a new opening pick into the gap you just created.
Slide the pick along the left edge to release the clips.
Only insert the pick up to 3 mm to avoid damaging the internals.
Repeat the rotating and sliding procedure for the remaining edge.
At this point, the screen should be separated from the frame. If there's still resistance around the edges of the screen, use an opening pick to release any remaining clips.

Step 10

Don't try to remove the screen all the way yet. It's still connected to the frame by a flex cable.
Lift the right edge of the screen up and towards the left side of the device, like opening a book.
Rest the screen upside down and parallel to the frame before continuing.
Don't twist the screen or move it too far away from the frame to avoid damaging the flex cable.

Step 11

The display cable bracket is secured with metal clips.
Use tweezers to bend the left side of the bracket upwards, releasing the metal clip.
Remove the display cable bracket.

Step 12

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the display cable's press connector.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

be incredibly careful when removing and installing the cable, the many tiny components along the edge and under the tab are incredibly fragile. This is one of, if not, the most important step.

Jeffrey Leon -

Step 13

Use tweezers to peel back the silver tape connecting the midframe and the top speaker.
Don't completely remove the tape. You only need to remove the bridge between the midframe and the top speaker.

Step 14

Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the two screws on both sides of the USB-C port.

Step 15

Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the 16 screws securing the midframe to the frame:
Nine 4.3 mm screws
Four 2.9 mm screws
Two 4.9 mm screws
One 4.6 mm screw

Step 16

Insert a spudger between the top of the midframe and the frame, near the front camera.
Pry up with the spudger to release the top of the midframe from its clips.

Step 17

Insert a spudger between the bottom left of the midframe and the frame.
Pry up with the spudger to release the bottom of the midframe from its clips.

Step 18

Remove the midframe.
You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the midframe is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your phone and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your phone back down completely before you continue working.

Step 19

Use the flat end of a spudger to scrape off the thermal paste.
Clean any remaining thermal paste with isopropyl alcohol and either a coffee filter or a lint-free cloth.
Repeat the cleaning process for the thermal paste on the midframe.
During reassembly, follow this guide for reapplying thermal paste to your device.

Step 20

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery's press connector.

Step 21

If your device doesn't have a 5G mmWave antenna, skip the next four steps.
Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the 2.9 mm screw securing the 5G mmWave antenna bracket.

Step 22

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull the bracket towards the right edge of the phone and disconnect its clip.
Remove the 5G mmWave antenna bracket.

Step 23

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the 5G mmWave antenna's press connector.

Step 24

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the 5G mmWave antenna.

Step 25

If your device doesn't have a battery spacer, skip the next three steps.
Insert an opening pick between the plastic battery spacer and the battery.
Slide the pick forward while prying to separate enough of the spacer to grip it with tweezers.

Step 26

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to peel the battery spacer away from the device.

Step 27

Remove the battery spacer.
If your replacement battery didn't come with this spacer, transfer it to your replacement part.

Step 28

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to peel the plastic pull tabs away from the battery.

Step 29

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the back of the device for two minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the battery is susceptible to heat damage.

Step 30

Pull the tabs back and forth in a sawing motion down the length of the battery to separate the adhesive underneath.
Work slowly. It's easy to lose your grip and accidentally pull the tab up from under the battery.
If you're having difficulty separating the adhesive, apply more heat and wait for the adhesive to loosen.

Step 31

Tilt the battery out of the device to separate the rest of the adhesive.
Remove the battery.
Do not reinstall a damaged or deformed battery, as doing so is a potential safety hazard.
Secure the new battery with pre-cut adhesive or double-sided adhesive tape. In order to position it correctly, apply the new adhesive into the device at the places where the old adhesive was located, not directly onto the battery. Press the new battery firmly into place.
During reassembly, temporarily reconnect the battery to the motherboard to help align it correctly. Disconnect the battery after it's seated.

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery after completing this guide.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Author

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Member since: 16/01/22

54801 Reputation

Google Pixel 6a Battery Replacement

Introduction

Tools

Parts

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