DualShock 4 Left Analog Stick Replacement

Written By: oldturkey03

Comments: 96

DualShock 4 Left Analog Stick Replacement

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

30 minutes - 1 hour

Introduction

Here is a DualShock 4 controller that had a drift to both analog joysticks. Fairly straight forward replacement of the joysticks resolved the issue.

The joystick is soldered to the controller board. You'll need a soldering station in order to complete this repair.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Using the Phillips #00 Screwdriver, remove the four 6.0 mm screws securing the rear cover to the controller.
Do not forcefully loosen the screws, as it will amount to permanent damage of the threads, making removal impossible.

Yo usé un Phillips #000, ya que el #00 quedaba grande y podía dañar el tornillo.

Adolfo Gomez Toledo - 19/12/20

A plain #0 works way better for me

Jennica Tapia -

I agree with Jennica, it's a #0 screw

Peeter -

Step 2

Four fragile plastic clips hold the casing together. You can see their locations more clearly in this guide.
The clips help hold the seams together. If you break these clips, the controller will still work.
Beginning with the left handle:
Pinch the left handle of the controller to introduce an opening.
Wedge a plastic opening tool into the opening and slide it up towards the joystick.
Pull down on the plier to crack open the casing.
Repeat these steps for the right handle.

Shoulders are where L1/L2/R1/R2 are, not the %#*@ handles. Confusing instructions.

foxhoundunit89 - 13/07/15

Quick tip: Be VERY careful at this step not to dislodge the tiny spring attached to the L2/R2 buttons. While removing the cover, it's easy to pull off either L2/R2 button. Inadvertently pulling off either button will also remove the tiny spring as well. While not too difficult to reassemble, it's not obvious where the spring goes as the spring is almost completely hidden along the side of the button (on the inside).

I just successfully completed analog stick replacements for two controllers. I completed the first repair without any trouble but managed to dislodge (and almost lose) the spring on the second time around. Needless to say, I spent some time trying to figure out where the spring is supposed to go (no photos of this anywhere). By sheer luck, I figured it out on my own. :)

Good luck and take your time--especially the first time!

Michael Whang - 28/11/15

couldn't have posted pics for me? :D

kimsballs - 25/01/16

Golden tip but I would add a thing or two.

Most probably both triggers R1&R2 will stay in lower half of the pad case with springs hanging there.

You must take them of their lower case sockets before assembly and fit them bellow L1&L2

When you feel click when fitting them and spring works like on normal assembled pad you're done.

If thats not the case do not try to assemble lower casing half as triggers will not work properly.

Simon - 22/02/16

if you lost the springs unfortunately, the triggers would still work but it is harder to get to the precise digital press. In other words you will have hard time to create a light press than a hard press.

meaningless - 11/06/16

My controller broke

Gary - 28/03/20

So what I seem to see a lot of sources fail to mention with this model (and promptly break without noticing) are the two plastic tabs attached to the front shell on either side of the headphone jack ; in order to properly pry that section open, all you need to do is lightly push those plastic tabs in, and the section should open up easily. That seems to be one of the main things that prevent people from prying the shell open.

The updated models have the tabs as well, but aren’t as stubborn considering the bars between the shoulder buttons on those are inside as opposed to being a part of the shell.

Hope this helps, and feel free to discuss, especially if you’re more familiar with the issue than me.

Rifter - 11/11/20

Thank you so much for mentioning exactly where the internal tabs are located, I couldn't for the life of me get into the controller otherwise.

I found using two thin plastic guitar picks, the kind that bend more freely, worked very well to shimmy into place on either side of the headphone jack and pop the tabs to get the device to open.

I did break a small piece from one of the teeth on the back half of the shell that inserts into the tabs, but I believe this was accidentally done before I came across your comment and was prying with a spudger willy-nilly.

Gently wiggling the front half of the shell containing the main portion of the electronics allowed me to release the triggers and open the controller the rest of the way.

Fizzwidgy -

Step 3

Wedge a plastic opening tool into the case-splittings and pull down to crack open the casing near the following buttons:
Share button
Options button
Split the plastic covers of the controller apart, taking note that they will still be attached by circuit board ribbons.
Three small pieces are often released from the framework. To prevent loss, maintain a controlled work field.
2 Trigger Springs
1 Grey Reset Button Extension

You can't just pull the casing halves apart. There is a plastic bar that is part of the casing and separates the L1 and R1 buttons from the L2 and R2 buttons. To get this loose, pull the casing outward perpendicular to the L and R buttons until you can slide the L2 and R2 buttons from behind the plastic bar.

dzturbd - 02/05/15

SO yesterday replaced the thumb stick on my controller, and now the R2 button is stuck, know any way to remedy this?

ScootsMcgoots - 03/05/15

I know you put a warning, but I lost the grey reset button extension. Any idea where to get a replacement part?

miamiman77 - 25/06/15

Hey, not even sure when you wrote this, but wanted to share my solution for this problem. I lost one of my reset button rubber pieces when I was doing a different repair, and found that a standard bamboo skewer is just about the perfect diameter to function as a replacement. Just cut it to the proper length and you should be able to get it in there and get your reset functionality back.

tcbrekke - 10/08/15

You don't really need it. A long paper clip will work fine.

Ron Smith - 29/09/15

I've removed and changed all buttons all seemed ok but now the options and share button don't work, as in when I pressed them down there is no longer a click (bounce) I'm certain it's back in the correct place and I don't think they can be put the wrong way up, does anyone have any advice please :)

Rachel - 20/01/16

My share button stopped 'clicking'. When I stripped the controller down I noticed a small copper coloured dimple on the motherboard was depressed instead of proud like the one for the options button. With bluetack I was able to pull it out but each time I tested it with my finger it clicked once and stayed depressed. I don't think there is a permanent solution to this as it's probably metal fatigue or similar so i put a tiny bit of blue tack overy the dimple so the plunger could push that bit further and hopefully pull it out each time. Seems to work as I reassemble the controller. Fingers crossed it holds out a while! I'd love to know if someone else had a different solution.

The5HD - 27/06/16

I had an extra part, and it wasn’t gray. Thank goodness for the picture of the black one. It’s rubbery. The small end should be inserted down towards the gold colored spot. It’s next to the word RESET on the mobo.

J Coyote - 28/12/17

When reassembling: If, like me, your R2/L2 buttons stayed with the bottom of the controller when you took it apart, it will be impossible to reassemble and get the tiny springs back in place.

To remedy, remove the buttons, and attach them, with the springs correctly placed, to the top of the controller. There are two tiny grooves, one on the button, and one on the controller top, into which the spring fits.

Jeff Human - 27/02/18

Jeff, we owe you a six pack for this comment.

James Goldie - 22/05/18

Thank You!! The spring came out and I looked for a way to reinsert it. So I led a thread through its opening (so it couldn´t jump away), and compressed it with pliers. So it was easy to put it in.

VauWeh - 23/09/18

Jeff, you've been a wonderfully helpful Human. Thanks for the ingenious tip.

Kris W - 15/09/19

Thanks man i was struggling there

Shut-_-Up -

My controller broke

Gary - 28/03/20

Something is stopping me from opening it cause it cut both by splitting tools

Josuke Higashikata - 03/08/20

Mine was also really really resistant to being pried open. In the end, i did my best to loosen the entire gap at least once, then inserted along the middle bottom and used more force than i would have been comfortable with. The plastic on the edges is slightly shot now and it’s not as smooth a grip-feeling anymore, but it came apart fine and I didn’t break anything important. There is just a lot of surface for a friction fit like this and the joysticks keep pulling it back down, which in combination makes it really resilliant. In my case it also was exuberated by a minor soda spill along the right handle which ‘glued’ it together, and i imagine that can also happen just with use and ‘hand cheese’, especially on the outer edges. There is a lot of surface area to stick together there.

Seleen Shadowpaw - 27/05/21

Step 4

Detach the motherboard ribbon connecting the two sides of the controller by pulling it straight out with your fingers.
Note the orientation of the cable and make sure it faces the right way when you reconnect it.
After the two halves are separated, place the top of the controller off to the side.

can you share the battery dimension?

luxusmirajane - 08/09/15

Step 5

Using the blunt forceps, remove the battery plug by gently rocking the forceps side-by-side to loosen the plug.
After removal of the plug from the motherboard, the battery can be lifted off of the controller.
Hasty removal of the battery plug could warp the plastic grips of the plug.

For the replacement battery I found that the Turnigy 2000mAh 1S 1C Lipo w/ 2 Pin JST-PH worked perfectly while also being a budget option at only $2.54 USD before shipping. However ONLY INSTALL AFTER CHANGING THE POLARITY OF THE CONNECTOR, this can be done with a pin or craft knife with relative ease. After doing this the controller has doubled in battery life. It required no modification to the controllers internals only extra care to ensure the longer cables didn’t get pinched in reassembly.

Ryan - 02/03/18

Got the battery detached without warping the plastic grips/ prongs, but it won't stick back to the board on reassembly. Is there an adhesive i should use?

Ferrum Phoxx - 02/05/19

Ferrum Phoxx - Did you just remove the plug from the socket? By that, I mean you didn’t pull the socket it was in off of the board too? If you did pull the socket off as well, I think that would require resoldering the socket to the board first. Tricky, but someone with some soldering experience ought to be able to fix it for you.

nowurgone - 13/07/19

I had trouble with analoge, I fixed that but FPC (flat connector) on mainboard broken and I soldered new 12 pin FPC on mainboard again, but in reverse!

then I put charging cable and the dualshock did not turn on , and I sensed that the dualshock is heating up, I remove charging cable as soon as possible.

problem is this : negative and positive putted in reverse.

I don’t kwow what happen if I solder new FPC in right position .

Does it work or somethings going to out of service?

sorry formy poor English language .

regards,

Hamed

hamed1379 - 26/09/20

I can’t pull the connector plug out of the socket. I’ve used my fingers, I’ve tried tweezers. I’ve been rocking it for 15 minutes but it won’t come out.

marcus2159 -

I found it difficult to unscrew the four screws on the back of my controller. I recommend a screwdriver that you can get a good grip on so you can turn it precisely.

My battery came with a screwdriver but when I turned it the handle broke in half. The second screwdriver came from an old set I'd got at Harbor Freight or somewhere. The screws stripped the screwdriver! Then I thought to get the screwdriver from the iFixit kit I'd used to replace the battery in my Galaxy S6 a few years ago. This worked much better. I might just buy a set of screwdriver bits here since both the bits and handle are far better constructed than the cheap stuff I broke.

Gary F -

Step 6

Remove the single 6.0 mm Phillips screw found below the battery retainer with the Phillips #00 Screwdriver.
Do not forcefully loosen the screw, as it may amount to permanent damage of the threads, making removal impossible.

Hello. I got a new graffiti controller (without hardware) and i wanted to switch my parts in the graffiti one. I have a PS4 Controller. Not a slim. But it seems like my motherboard screw is on the other side.. its on the right side of the motherboard and my graffiti is on the left.. what controller do i need to fix this?

TheTechnoMan - 14/06/17

Step 7

Gently detach the touchpad ribbon connected to the motherboard using the blunt forceps. The touchpad ribbon is connected to the motherboard by a connector that flips to tighten and loosen. During reassembly, to reattach the ribbon, the plastic tray will need to be gently removed from the motherboard and the flip-lock flipped up.

Be very careful when you detach the touchpad ribbon. You could disconnect the other end that is inside the touchpad. In fact I would recommend you use a plastic spudger to release the clips on the sides of the battery holder, and then lift the latch to the ZIF socket of the touchpad. If your touchpad is not working upon reassembly, then the other end of the ribbon cable my have came loose in the touchpad. Use a plastic opening tool to remove the back of the touchpad, and lift the brown latch of the ZIF socket and reinsert.

Patrick - 20/06/14

thanks for the advice

TMC - 22/07/14

currently doing this and have found the desoldering part the most difficult. i purchased a 40w solder on sale and attempted to remove with flux and wick to no avail. a buddy of mine tried with his station and no dice. at this point im thinking the contacts are lead? any advice?

swammieslippyslappy - 31/12/14

So the springs are annoying couldn't see were you talk about these as it's very fiddly to do the last step of putting it back together. Not just a reverse of taking it apart!

Frank Theplank - 14/05/15

I concur. The springs are the worst part of this job. It would be nice if someone edited this to add some tricks for reassembly.

raysmalley - 09/12/15

You just have to put the r2/l2 buttons on the top side. There's a space around that white rubber thing where you can just snap them in. So that you have all the shoulder buttons together before putting the 2 parts back together.

Flow Von D - 03/01/16

Tilt your controller and trigger so the triggers are pointing to the ground it stops the spring popping out so much place spring inside the trigger and clip on thats how i do it anyway :) the touchpad is my problem area replaced my stick covers and now it just doesnt work at all :(

drwhatfunk - 12/08/16

https://cdn0.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/9dWsZNn...

Dallas Smith - 26/12/16

Thank you for this recommendation. Made disassembly SO much smoother.

jeninholland02 - 22/11/15

What I did for the Springs was place the spring on the button. Turned the button to where the spring is up on top then attached the button to the controller this helps keep the spring in place as you reattach it that is really the only trick that I found to it.

Matthew Luna - 11/01/16

“The touchpad ribbon is connected to the motherboard by a connector that flips to tighten and loosen” —> Just fixed a controller I bought in 2017. There was definitely no flip connector there, the ribbon simply went in. I guesss the internals changed. So beware: don’t mess with the female connector on the motherboard if there’s no obvious flip switch.

jonl - 31/08/19

Thank you. I just broke a piece of the plastic because it will not flip. I could not figure it out and was wondering if the version in these demonstrations was different than mine. Thank you for addressing this.

nearthecross - 31/03/21

never had spring problem

DARKMATTER - 16/10/19

Just want to say big thanks to ifixit for mentioning the flap. It worked like a charm. I searched high and low on all the usual forums, Reddit, Youtube, you name it. Who knew it was as simple as flipping the flap and no one even thought of mentioning it until I found this website.

leehmclara -

I don't see a flap for the ZIF connector on the controller (CUH-ZCT2U) I'm working on, so I gently pulled it out with pliers. I may not have seen it, but I couldn't see a release mechanism.

Shane -

Step 8

Carefully dislodge the motherboard assembly from the front cover.
Vibration motors are loosely attached to the motherboard assembly. Provide support at the two ends to ease the separation.
When removing the motherboard assembly, try not to tilt the front cover upside down as the buttons and their covers may fall out.

Yeah, the factory solder job for those motors on the mobo is terrible. Every time I open these up, I add more solder to those joints just to be safe.

Robert - 02/04/21

Step 9

Successful disassembly of the controller will result in the following three parts, respectively:
Motherboard Assembly
Front Cover
Rear Cover

One day my R2 trigger refused to work all in a sudden. The second day it spread to my square button. I dissembled the controller to this step and found some liquid between the green motherboard and the black plastic holding it. I should not have bought a second-hand especially for a launch version. Anyways I cleaned it up and it still didn't work. I then went to ebay and bought a new motherboard. Basically it is a piece of delicate plastic like PCB. It is held in place by 3 plastic columns and 3 gaps for sliding underneath both triggers and the touch pad. Sorry for no pictures but a careful removal of the old one would give you the best illustration of how to put the new one back. First remove the rubber pads of the triggers, which allows you to slide in the PCB. Then there are another 2 small plastic columns at the back of the gap near the touch pad. There is no need to detach the rotors. A pair of tweezers would help greatly. My controller now works perfectly like new and thanks to the author.

meaningless - 11/06/16

Step 10

Use a "Helping Hands" or similar tool to hold the circuit board steady for the solder work.
These are the solder connections that will need to be desoldered. Since the board is upside down, left will become right.
Use a desoldering wick and flux to melt and remove the solder

Bessere Alternative zu Entlötlitze und Flussmittel wäre ein Entlötsauger. Gibt es für um die 7 Euro bei Conrad oder ähnlich. Saugt das Lötzinn gleich weg und vermeidet eine Sauerei auf der Platine. So wie im nächsten Schritt... Sieht nachher viel sauberer aus!

macdieter23558 -

Step 11

Once all the contacts are desoldered, the old joystick can be removed. This may take a bit of practice since all the solder will have to be removed. It does help to pull a bit on the joystick while melting the solder and using the wick.
Ensure that the contacts of the replacement joystick are identical to the original.
Check that all the holes are cleared of old solder. Hypodermic needles as well as very small drill bits can be used to clear the holes. The molten looking substance on the circuit board is the flux used for the desoldering.

Hi Im haveing alot of trouble finding a reputable place to buy a replacement analog stick. Can anyone suggest a good place(that ships U.S) that sells a replacement of good quality?

taron C heath - 03/10/17

Yeeeeeeeeeeahhh…I’m going to recommend you don’t use needles or bits to clear the holes. Just use high-quality solder-wick and flux to clear the holes— with an appropriate soldering tip. I see the OP used flux paste (judging from the prep) and used a brush to spread it. I’d highly recommend liquid flux; Amtech NC-559 flux — it’s the best I’ve ever used. Do the job correctly, and you’ll have no issues. PS — Try to use minimal heat when doing the job, as well. It’s probably just the way his flux paste burned, but it looks like he may have applied heat far longer than needed for those joints, but it could just be the flux burning. Also, clean the area with ~95% isopropyl alcohol (or higher) so it isn’t disgustingly sticky when that flux dries.

Robert - 02/04/21

Step 12

Insert the new joystick into the circuit board. Make sure it is properly seated and that all the contacts line up with the holes in the circuit board.
Solder all the contacts to the board.
Here is the board after the repair. All that is left is to clean off the old flux with some isopropyl alcohol.

What kind of solder is good for this

Loco Busters - 25/04/21

Is this actually possible with a soldering iron?

Trevor Rogers -

It sure is. I used a regular run of the mill soldering iron. Nothing fancy…..are you having trouble with soldering it?

oldturkey03 -

i did this and the analog will either not work at all or move all the way to one side on screen.

Jonathan M -

Hi, nice guide. I am having problems with ps4 controller. I am not able to desolder them. I work alot with xbox controllers and other stuff and i do not have Any kind of problems, but with ps4 controllers i am not able to desolder them with desoldering pistol, wick, adding solder and using my tools to desolder. I don't know what the problem is.

bruno.rodrigues2060 -

This is a double sided/soldered board. You need a a heat-gun and a lot of heat reflecting protection. I did it by carefully braking the joystick components apart and tackling each soldered joint once in isolation. Not easy.

Mike Harris -

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Author

oldturkey03

Member since: 29/09/10

720042 Reputation

35 comments

Where can i buy the left stick ?

alexxx492002 - 07/01/15

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Analog-Stick-for...

Joseph - 17/01/15

Swammieslippyslappy, there is no lead in the device, if so the solder would release much easier. Lead Solder goes to liquid at 180-190 Celsius vs lead free at 212-226 Celsius. I would suggest buying a desoldering iron (cheap ones are fine $10-$20 they have the bulb attached for one handed operation) as using a solder wick becomes rather tedious with the smaller parts.

Joseph Van Meter - 05/03/15

Would this fix the issue with the L3 button not remaining activated after initiating? (ie. running in call of duty)

Jorge - 20/04/15

Very helpful guide!! I've never soldered/desoldered anything before so this was a little difficult for me. I ran into a few problems along the way: my inital soldering iron was 30W and it wasn't melting the solder, so I had to buy a 40W iron and that one did the trick. I also had a rough time using the desoldering wick (the solder didn't seem to suck up into the wick) so I ended up using a combination of a desoldering pump and the wick. I eventually got the piece out and the rest was easy! Thanks again and if anybody needs help with this project feel free to message me and I'll do the best I can to help.

SergeantCorbett - 21/05/15

Hi SergeantCorbett,

I don't know if your offer still applies but I'm a soldering virgin and would appreciate any nuggets of wisdom you may have for me!

Thanks a lot

Jake

Jake Hogan - 29/09/16

I managed to carry out the stick replacement. Desoldering was definitely the most difficult part.

Whilst I was struggling with the desoldering I accidentally leant my iron on the ribbon connector to the right and managed to melt it. I can not put the ribbon in the connector now.

The joypad works fine but it wont charge now because I can not reconnect the ribbon.

If anyone can give any advice of the pin layout of the connector so I can get it to charge, I would be really grateful. Or if anyone knows where I can source a replacement mainboard I would consider that as an option.

Tony Morris - 25/01/16

Hi tony,

Replacebase.co.uk do them

Cheers Jake

Jake Hogan - 29/09/16

i did all this. had to use a solder pump and a soldering iron to remove the solder, coulding do it with just wick. put everything back together and everything is working now, except my L1 button? I just changed the Left analog. not sure what i did to futz up the L1. been searching the internets and have yet to find what to look for on this.

Albert Schroter - 27/01/16

Some times the actual flex board is old and u have to buy a new one look at the board where the traces go to and conect with the casual pcb board the lil squares might be waisted and if they are u have to but. A new

SAM CORTEZ - 24/12/19

Are you sure the controller will work after that? I'm going to be replacing that thing on my dads 2 controllers and That part of the motherboard that had to be desoldered looks super boiled, burnt and 100% broken. Whoever answers this you need to be 110% sure that the controller will still work after that

jwilson12380 - 22/04/16

I should work . The reason it looks burnt is because they probably didn't use water soluble flux. So without the proper solvent chemicals, it left a gross brown residue. It's not actually burnt, just has a gross layer of flux that hasn't be cleaned off.

Connor Crothers - 04/06/16

I had a feeling that this is what I was gonna have to do haha. Thanks for confirming that it would work!

Rylan Lujan - 22/11/16

Hi i have 1 problem. .. i changed my left stick, he's working but when i playing games automatically character walking to the left side... what is the problem i bought sticks from aliexpress and i got 2 sticks, so i tryed both of them... and still same problem.

Marius - 05/01/17

What generation controller do u have the one with the light on the touch pad or the older

SAM CORTEZ - 24/12/19

the problem is that you cant really change sticks on DS4.

every stick is different..thats why after placing the sticks in factory, sony is calibrate each stick by programming and you cant acces to it.

in NS switch for example nintendo let you recalibrate stick.

so changing sticks on PS4 or xbox one is hit and miss

haim semel - 29/10/20

I bought 2 sticks from ebay(seller: oo_875, ). the seller is related with the first comment ebay seller(you can find that clue from their review comment).

they are selling MALFUNCTION products. I think It is a same problem that Marius mentioned (the previous comment writer).

and I think a 40w soldering tool is not enough for desoldering that(took so long)

So, I failed.

Be careful on buying stuff and good luck to you.

yeonminpark - 26/06/17

I had a problem with unmelting solder before. Fixed by sanding and tining the soldering iron.

Laser Bean - 13/06/18

How many watts do you need for soldering iron? 30,40,60?

Dengo - 14/01/18

@dengo all the work was done with an inexpensive 30W soldering iron.

oldturkey03 - 14/01/18

Actually 30w soldering iron is not enough buy a 60w one that will be better also u can buy the low melting solder so that u can desolder it way

SAM CORTEZ - 24/12/19

Could the heat of the soldering iron damage the joysticks?

Laser Bean - 13/06/18

Laser Bean only if you burn the components or traces…….

oldturkey03 - 14/06/18

I did this and now my joystick and my d-pad will go down when pushed but right as I let go it moves up on it's on. Any ideas as to what went wrong?

Chris - 20/07/18

did everything properly but when i connect my right analog stick drifts up and stays there

danielacosta_14 - 30/09/19

Hello, thanks for very helpfull guide.

I have two controllers, both with same issue - broken left stick. Is it possible to take the RIGHT stick from older controller and use it for LEFT stick position on controller? Is there any difference between left and right stick?

Thanks a lot for an answer.

Karel

Karel Vaněk - 10/12/19

Better yet practice removing them on controllers you do not use or need anymore, before the controller you actually want. The left and right sticks are the same, however the pin configuration may be diff on the board. In other words soldered in backward from the left.

Rodmanz Gamz - 23/04/20

My god, just replace it. Unless you have alot of experience in soldering and removing solder. Do not attempt unless its for practice. I did a mic replacement jack(headphone) and practiced on 2 with proper equipment. A large magnifying glass will go a long way as well. Soldering is an art much like welding, practice, understand what your getting into or simply trade the old one in for 30 and get a new one.

Rodmanz Gamz - 23/04/20

My R3,R4 stuck's and it jams the combinations of my controller .. what should I do ?

Jack Sam - 27/04/20

Bonjour j'ai bien fait toute les étapes mais une fois remonter le joystick ne fonctionne pas du tout pouvez vous m'aidez svp merci bonne journée email : lucas-boccaccini@hotmail.fr

Lucas boccaccini - 07/05/20

is it really necessary to use flux and desoldering wick? i tried mine without it and it didnt work..

juddah - 18/05/20

Where can you buy original joysticks, most of the ebay ones don’t work properly as there is a huge deadzone at the edges of the sticks

Will Hampshire - 28/07/20

Hi, i cant desolder ps4 analogue sticks, solder doesn't melt with flux, wick, add a bit of solder too and it doesn't melt. Why? I can fix xbox controllers easily with the same solder iron.. Can anyone help me understand why this is happening?

Ps:i can solder the rumble motors with no problem.

bruno.rodrigues2060 - 22/10/20

I recommend using a heat gun, solder sucker, or a real desoldering gun. Using a only wick to desolder was pretty impossible for my controller since the entire hole, both sides, were filled with non-leaded solder. So I got a solder sucker and even then ended up prying out the stick since there was still a little solder left on the other side. And in the end, the replacement stick that I got off of ebay has very bad response, nothing like the OEM.

philisal - 01/01/21

Yo lo realice y me queda apuntando para la izquierda. Nada más que podrá ser ya lo cambie 2 veces y sigue igual

Javier Delvalle -